Embellishing with Appliqué

I have been designing a new collection for ShinkuRose https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shinkurose/593986427294641) comprising of an OP, a JSK, blouse, cutsew, coat and two skirts.  I have found it very difficult to get border prints in England which are suitable so I decided to decorate the bottom of the JSK with applique. 

The applique needed to be large so I drew it on a large piece of paper and made a pattern.  I cut this pattern out and then copied it on to Bondaweb. Bondaweb is a strong, heat reactive, sheet of glue which permanently bonds one fabric to another when ironed, it is paper backed and is ironed to the applique, the paper removed and then the applique is ironed onto the garment. 

 

 

 

Before attaching I made sure that the applique was in exactly the right place on the JSK. 

 

 

Because of the glue I used my silk organza to cover the applique whilst pressing it on.  I used a pressing movement, up and down with the iron, rather than an ironing movement so as to completely stick and not move the applique whilst attaching.

I had one or two problems with adding the bondaweb to the bow as I had cut both pieces out separately so when I repeated the process for one of my skirts I found an easier solution. I cut the applique out in bondaweb and pressed these onto one piece of fabric and then cut out the appliques out, this proved to be much easier and quicker.

Once cut out place them on the garment in the correct positions.

Press the appiques on and before sewing them to the garment practice stitching.  You will use a small close together zig zag and I did a few different combinations on a scrap of fabric bondaweb to the main to see which I preferred.

I like to loosen my top tension a bit to give a lovely rounded stitch on the right side therefore the wrong side will look like the sample below.

And here is the finished skirt.

Toiles

Started my outfit and I have photographed the fitting process:

The start of the blouse

This is in the actual fabric and now just needs the sleeves finishing with a frill, the neckline needs to be completed and pretty buttons bought and buttonholes made

The JSK

Calico pinned to fit

The Back

The shirred back will obviously look neater on the finished dress

The Straps

Now to make the changes to the pattern and cut out.  Here is the lovely fabric I bought in Bath that I am going to use

Day out in London

I visited London last weekend if full Gothic Lolita coord. I had a great time and lots of compliments. On the station in Richmond a stranger asked to take my photo, in Covent Garden again my photo was taken this time without asking and lots of people said lovely things. My brother’s grandmother-in-law to be said I looked like a ‘little doll’.

In China Town

Drinking Boba tea

Next outing is to MCM Expo and I am planning what to make and wear for it at the moment. I bought some great border fabric in a super little shop in Bath and will be wearing full on sweet Lolita. I have some accessories but am also making some more, a bow headband and a fuzzy brooch are on the list to do.